2010 News Magazine

THREE COURSE MEAL Wallace Westerfield

“What are you nuts? Most of my clients can’t even handle one fly.” This is not really an accurate sentence, because most guides don’t speak in complete sentences. Plus, they use a lot of modifier words usually beginning with the letter ‘f’. But it does bring up the point that guides don’t agree about everything and one of them is whether it is advisable to use a 3-fly nymph rig with a client … especially with a beginner. I am willing to argue both sides of the issue, but in this article I am going to argue for the 3 nymphs … plus an indicator … and maybe some split-shot too. “Sheesh (substitute accurate modifier word here) Westfeldt, what else are you going to put on that line, blinking lights?” Point taken, but considering what the French are doing with their line indicators, that may not be so far away. But that’s another article. My opinion is that using 3 fly nymph rig is more about the specific river, water flow, and presentation rather than the experience of the client. In fact, I find this easier to do with a beginner who has no casting experience, than an intermediate who has already developed some interesting casting habits. THE PLACE For most of the “guide season,” The Big Thompson below Estes Park is well suited to 3 fly rigs. First of all, it is a comparatively open river with less brush than most. Two, it’s the right size and depth. In other words, there is both lateral and vertical room to dead drift three flies underwater. And three, the water layout (riffles, pools, runs, pockets, etc) are set up to allow for close-in work. Long distance casts are usually not necessary and when and distance is required there is plenty of room to water-load the cast from downstream. There are times and places where the Big T is not suitable for 3 nymphs. In the winter when the flow drops to 20cfs, it’s too shallow. Low water is a particular problem in the upper section (Mall Road to Olympia dam) has an excessive amount of moss and rock snot. As you go down the canyon you can start using 3 nymphs at lower water levels. In general, look for water-levels form 50-75cfs before using 3 flies. THE PRESENTATION When I first started guiding, I was advised to keep it simple. Then, that advisor (to protect his identity I will just use his initials ‘JB’) recommended that I setup a 3 fly nymph rig with an indicator and split shot. I was confused. That’s simple? What’s complex? 4 flies, 6 flies? I found out that in this case JB was talking about the cast not the rig. With this much terminal tackle, most anglers cannot consistently execute a back cast without significant entanglements. The good news is you don’t need to. The weight of this rig allows you cast from a complete stop, with all the flies settled. It has some of the characteristics of a roll cast, but without the line roll. It is more of a flip cast. At the beginning of the cast the line hangs motionless (creating the d-shape beginning of the roll cast), and then from the stopped, no-slack, position the angler simply pushes the rod tip towards the target firmly with their thumb. The fly line is pinched onto the cork handle with the casting hand. Often I will tell intermediates to put their left hand in their pocket to help simplify the motion. In the picture to the right, Sarah prepares for a double digit day and keeps her hand warm at the same time. Note that the red arrow points to the Strike Indicator hanging free above the water.  Once the cast is made, the angler reaches and lifts the rod horizontally to help create a drag-fee drift. Not only is this cast simple and quick to learn, it can be amazingly accurate. As the drift finishes and the flies rise in the water (a frequent strike opportunity), the rod is automatically water-loaded for the next cast. Or, the angler can resume the original position.  Easy peezy. DO NOT FLOG THE WATER. Take your time with this cast. Stop between each throw, find your target, and let the line settle.  Here is another view where Sarah is pointing to her target. Red arrow again points to indicator hanging out of harm’s way. Sarah’s husband Paul demonstrates the LUNCH VARIATION THE RIG Before explaining the rig, let’s review the principles of “Dead Drift Suspension Indicator Rig.” Actually, the principles are contained in that stupid name.  The idea behind this style (not the only style by any means) of nymphing is that you want to get the flies flowing freely (unencumbered by line drag) in the current feeding zone, under an indicator that has enough flotation for the weight of the flies. The keys here are depth and sink rate.  The depth is controlled by the distance between the indicator and the first, or “point”, fly.  The sink rate is the result of how heavy the flies (and supplemental split-shot) are combined with the speed of the water. If your sink rate is too slow, the flies don’t get into the feeding zone in time. If it is too fast, you will likely hang-up in the shallow areas before getting into the feeding zone. There are several useful and sometimes conflicting generalities to control these variables. For example: * The faster the water the more weight required * Depth should be 1, 1.5, 2 times the depth of the water * If you drift ten times and don’t snag, you are too shallow Experience and experimentation are the two best teachers for tuning these generalities to the specific situation. Below is a prototype rig recipe for fishing the Big T most of the time. Use it as a starting point and then customize it for your specific situation. BIG T THREE COURSE MEAL: 7.5 foot leader tapered to 4x 2 foot of 4X tippet #8 or #6 Girdle Bug (aka Pat’s Rubber Legs, Meatloaf, etc; Golden Stonefly imitation) 18 inches of 5X to weighted midge pupa pattern (Poison Blue Tung, Black Zebra, Knob Creek Midge; #18 - #20) 12 – 16 inches of 6X to Soft Hackle Sow Bug #18 - #20 Thingamabobber indicator above tippet knot. Notes on this rig: 1. Use the smallest Thingamabobber that will float with the rig. 2. If Girdle Bug and Midge Pupa pattern are not providing enough weight add split shot 8-10 inches above Girdle Bug. 3. Always start with the Soft Hackle Sow Bug. As the day progress and Mayfly activity increases, I frequently switch to Pandemic or Jujubaetis for the last fly. I particularly like the Pandemic when the PMDs are happening. 4. The smaller Soft Hackle Sow Bugs have trouble holding the fish. Bend the hook point a little to the side. 5. When I see the Caddis around, I will often substitute the Midge Pupa with an Electric Caddis. 6. Keep it slow … one presentation at a time.